There is an endless number of factors that can differentiate one t-shirt from another. Two seemingly identical t-shirts can look very different when the workmanship and assembly are analyzed. The way a t-shirt is made will influence the wear and feel on the skin, the longevity of the product, and the possibilities of branding.
Check the quality:
Touch it: Even thick, sturdy cotton should be soft against the skin. If not, it is probably made with short fibers, and it will be less durable.
No Pilling: Cotton isn't as prone to pilling as some other fabrics, so if you see a new garment that has pilling, go your way.
Check the density of the fabric: By looking through in front of a light. Even if it is very thin, the fabric should not be transparent. If it lets in a lot of light, it is a sign that it is not very dense, and therefore not very durable.
Check the knitting: You will see 18, 30, or 40 single threads. The more cotton threads, the tighter the knitting will be. For example, a 100% combed ring-spun cotton t-shirt will be very firm`, with a tighter and smoother fabric.
"Wt" or "Gunze Count": Some are measuring systems used to specify the thickness of the wire, they indicate the length of the wire in kilometers used for one kilo.
Example: 40 wt means 40 km of wire for a total weight of 1kg.
On the measurement scale:
"50 wt" or "# 50/3 Gunze" is a subtle wire.
"40 wt" or "# 40/3 Gunze" is an average son.
"30 wt" or "# 30/3 Gunze" is already considered a thick wire.
The higher the measurement, the thinner the yarn, and therefore the knitting is denser, softer, and lighter than knitting with a "20 wt" or "# 20/3 Gunze" measuring yarn.
The basic t-shirt is made with relatively thick yarns, that is, have a measurement of 20 to 30 (yarn thickness).
For example, a 100% cotton t-shirt with a weight of 150g / m² at "50 wt" will have a tighter knit, softer, denser, will resist pilling better, and will have a longer life than a t-shirt "30wt" knitted with a thicker yarn. This one on the other hand will have the advantage of being less expensive because it is faster to manufacture.
Jersey is an umbrella term used for all types of weft fabrics. It was originally made only from wool but is now made from wool, cotton, and man-made fibers. The term "jersey" is derived from the name of the Channel Island which lies between Great Britain and France, where sturdy weft fabrics were hand sewn for fishermen.
Single jersey is a term that is applied to a range of fabrics that are knitted with a set of needles on a knitting machine with a needle bed.
Double jersey is a term that two sets of needles on a knitting machine with two-needle beds.
The interlock fabric is a variation of rib knitting. Similar to jersey knitting except for the front and back of the fabric are the same. The double knit structure makes this knit fabric thicker, it is the tightest knit that gives the smoother surface. It is extremely limp, durable, and absorbent.
Cut and seam
The assembly is the last step and no less essential of the T-shirt. The seams of a garment are usually a proper indicator of its attribute. Often, the average buyer doesn't pay attention to. This is why some manufacturers prefer to save on this important step. Indeed, it is the quality of the stitching that will allow the product to last over time while keeping its shape.
Tubular assembly is widespread and recognized in the manufacture of t-shirts. The threads are woven into a long tube and then cut into sections to the desired size. This method is efficient and economical.
"Cut and sewn" assembly
The side seam means the t-shirt has been made from separate panels for the front and back. They are then sewn together vertically along the sides. Most of the female models are made with side seams and styled close to the body in a cinched fashion.
Check if the seams are straight or twisted. Loose seams with lost threads, loose stitches, or areas are sewn several times are signs of poor quality.
Each seam that connects two pieces of fabric, such as side seams, are constantly under tension and should be done using a more secure method such as double seams, French seams (edges of the fabric are folded in and sewn together) together or tied seams.
The seams should be neat, secure, and not too visible. It is important to check that the hem is stable and secure for the shape of the garment. A poor quality hem will simply be folded in and sewn as is. In this case, there will be a line of dots on the outside and zigzag lines on the inside.
A detail that can make a difference. The quality of the label should not scratch so as not to make the product uncomfortable.