When one learns how to flush brake fluid or otherwise known as bleeding one's brakes this helps to maintain the hydraulic pressure. It is important to flush out the air bubbles and to replace the old liquid. There are five different methods to follow. There is the one and two-person Pump and Hold, the Vacuum method, the pressure method and the reverse pressure method.
Flushing the system is often not mentioned in the vehicle's maintenance manual. When left unchecked corrosion can begin in the system. Water will cause the swelling and deterioration of seals. The liquid should be changed every two years or 30,000 miles. If the car is in a very humid environment then the fluid should be changed every year.
It is important to flush one's system on a regular basis so that it is optimized. In the event the liquid should get contaminated with moisture the system needs to get flushed right away. The pedal will feel better, the life of the system will be extended and there will be less likelihood of internal corrosion.
Clean brake fluid is transparent with a tinge of amber color. When it absorbs moisture it becomes darker and cloudy in color. A tester can also be used to measure the boiling point of the liquid. When it is below 330 degrees the liquid should be replaced. The majority of vehicles use the Dot 3 brake fluid and the type will be indicated by the instructions in the manual.
One should never mix the types of brake fluid or use another kind of oil in place of it. Any liquid that is left over should be discarded since once opened it will start to absorb moisture making it unsuitable for future use.
It is best to do the flushing with two people. One should be prepared with clean rags, a bottle to catch the old liquid, a spanner to fit the caliper bleed screw, and clear plastic tubing which fits over the bleed screw nipple. A bleeding kit is required which consists of a vacuum pump. The other tools that are needed include a wrench, a jack and two jack stands. The service manual will indicate the proper bleed order.
The vehicle will need to be jacked up to reach the parts more easily. The cap of the master cylinder must be unscrewed being careful to wipe any dirt off first so none enters the reservoir. The rubber cap must be removed from the bleed screw. One should pump the brake periodically to maintain the vacuum but air should not be allowed to back into the lines. With the pedal depressed the bleeder valve is wrenched open. As one bleeds it is important to make sure that the liquid is kept above the minimum line.
When there are no longer any air bubbles present, the screw should be tightened and recapped. Flush brake fluid should be repeated in the order that the manual describes until all the air bubbles are allowed to escape. The master cylinder should be refilled to the maximum level.
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